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The Gambier Islands are a group
of half a dozen mountainous islands, protected by a fringing coral reef and
many small low islets, known locally as Motus. Virtually all the 1500 inhabitants live on Mangareva, the largest Island. Akuena has only one, very friendly, inhabitant called Bernard, who we had on board for dinner. Being 1600 km from Tahiti, with only two flights of a small turboprop aircraft per week, the island has to be considered one of the most isolated inhabitants in the world. (Double click the map to see full size, then use back button to return) |
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We had some concerns about
entering the pass into the beautifully sheltered lagoon, but is turned out
to be straightforward. It was great to have a calm anchorage after
rolling around in the unprotected anchorages of the Marquesas. The choice of food available was quite limited. There were plenty bananas but relatively little cultivated locally. Most of the local prefer to work on the pearl farms and buy imported food. We were told that cultivation was exceptionally laborious due to insect damage. We also confirmed that the best definition of cruising is "getting to work on your boat in exotic places" |
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Only 7 people live on the island of Taravai. When we went ashore this
fellow welcomed us and knocked come coconuts down from his trees to share
with us. We bought some fruit and vegetables from his very friendly neighbours. There is a somewhat ruined church on the island, which was built for the population of around a thousand when the missionaries arrived in the mid 19th century |
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We liked the uninhabited motus,
and spent several days snorkeling and wandering on the beaches. Heather is wearing her wetsuit, because the Gambiers are noticeably cooler than the Marquesas. |
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 We
saw only a couple of sharks, but several giant clams, always closed. |
 Water in the Gambiers is clearer than in the Marquesas |
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We climbed Mount Duff, and its neighbour Mount Mokoto. Surprisingly,
there is quite a good trail though the bush, with ropes on a few extremely
steep grassy sections. Apparently, there is an annual race to the
tops, with some off-island participants too. After a wee or so in the Gambiers we looked at the weather forecasts and left for Fatu Hiva, a couple of days earlier than we wished to. |
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